Slow Travel
Bangkok Has a Second River and Almost Nobody Gets on It
The khlongs are the working back streets of Bangkok, seen from above, at a busker's pace. A single boat route takes you from a market to a temple without a single car.
The things that actually go wrong, and what to do instead.
Slow Travel
The khlongs are the working back streets of Bangkok, seen from above, at a busker's pace. A single boat route takes you from a market to a temple without a single car.
Practicalities
The closest thing Thailand has to a national park that works as a national park. Gibbons at dawn, elephants nobody has met, and an entrance fee that tells you who pays for it.
Practicalities
From 31 March 2026 every app driver needs a public licence, and from October the government starts grading the platforms. Here is what that means for the ride you are about to book.
Practicalities
The policy you buy for a holiday is built for a different holiday. Scooters, diving, motorcycles and hospitals that demand cash are where it falls apart, every time.
Practicalities
There are three scenes in Thailand and they are nothing like each other. One of them is loud, chaotic, and staffed entirely by women who will stop you making a mistake.
Slow Travel
The best park in the city is free, the best view of the skyline is free, and the best food in the country costs less than the entry fee to the palace you queue for.
Slow Travel
A limestone lake the colour of a swimming pool, a fully river-fed one, in a national park that closes parts of itself for most of the year. Here is how to actually get there.
Practicalities
Thailand does more cosmetic dental work than almost anywhere and a lot of it is excellent. The rest of it is a market, and a market needs rules.
Practicalities
Around twenty tropical storms a year and a coastline pointed the wrong way. July to October is a gamble, and the smart way to play it is to not bet the trip on it.
Practicalities
The gap between knowing the tones and being able to hold a conversation is about two hundred hours, and a school can compress it, but not as much as the marketing says.
Practicalities
The jet ski is not damaged. You are on a beach where the only drink costs a thousand baht and a towel deposit you will never see again. Here is the whole system.
Practicalities
Dial 1155 and you reach a police force that speaks your language, is not part of the chain of command you are imagining, and will actually turn up.